The tier 8 American tank destroyer T28 might be one of the slower tanks in the game and also it also has good armor stats as far as the listed ones go. But how does it’s armor really stand up? Just because it has a listed armor value of 254mm for it’s frontal armor does not mean that it’s armor frontally is that thick. When it comes down to it the T28’s armor frontally is actually 203mm over the majority of the frontal armor which is a huge difference from 254mm. Although it’s armor is actually thinner than it’s listed value it does not mean that the armor is weak but it does mean that is opens up far more weak spots than you would expect.
Unlike other vehicles the weakest armor of the T28 on the hull/super structure is actually the “main body” being near the center of the tank and upper glacis which makes hiding these weak spots as a driver difficult. This guide will break down the T28’s armor into specific areas and list effective armor values. The purple areas are either view ports that may cause zero damage critical hits or track areas where you cannot do any HP damage due to there being no hull armor behind them.
Frontally you can see that the T28 has weaker armor than you would expect since it’s armor is mostly 203mm instead of 254mm across the frontal armor. This opens up a lot of the frontal area to tier 8+ tanks that if it were 254mm instead would not be able to penetrate most of the frontal armor on the hull and superstructure. Engaging the T28 frontally comes down to how far away you are from the T28. If you are closer or have an accurate gun you can focus on the top weak spots(A9-12) since both cupolas are rather weak. If you are further away and cannot hit those reliably then aiming at the upper frontal glacis #1(UFG #1) or area #1(A1) would be better options if you have that penetrate since they are much larger.
For T28 drivers it is difficult for them to be firing while also hiding their weak spots since they are located in the center of the frontal armor section(A1/UFG #1). As a driver if you can find a small incline you can use what gun depression you have to increase your upper frontal glacis armor without showing your lower frontal glacis. It won’t do much but it can make you bounce most tier 8 and some tier 9 tanks with this little boost. Another small trick that veteran T28 drivers do is to use that massive long gun to point where people are aiming which often times causes the enemy shell to hit the gun module and thus do no HP damage.
The T28 tank destroyer’s side is very weak compared to the frontal armor and due to it’s length very easy to hit from any range. Avoid shooting towards the frontal section where the thick frontal superstructure armor(around the gun) wraps around partially to the side armor. Aside from that thick armor wrapping around to the frontal side section you should be able to easily penetrate the T28’s side armor. The prime location to hit is just under the rear commander’s cupolas on the side hull since it is where the ammo racks are located. Behind them towards the rear of the hull is the engine compartment with the engine module and fuel tanks.
A T28 with an enemy at it’s rear is a dead T28 since the armor back here cannot stop any shells unless if you are shooting at an auto-bounce angle. Fire away and tear that T28 apart since it’s engine is located behind the rear hull armor!
If a T28 is trying to angle while you shoot at them(don’t know why they would since they cannot fire back at you) then you should stick to the frontal weak spots unless the side armor falls below auto-bounce angles. Simply focus on the frontal weak spots that are on the side closest to you and you’ll be able to damage the T28 easily. If for whatever reason the T28 angles heavily and exposes it’s side then make them regret that by putting a few shells through it.