Which German Tank Line is Right for You?

One of the most important decisions in World of Tanks that will partly determine whether or not you enjoy the game is which tank line you progress down.  Each line has it’s own ups and down in terms of the grinding difficulty and specific traits for each tank.  It is important to figure out how you enjoy playing World of Tanks before attempting to go to tier 10 due to the time or cash commitment required from tier 5-10.  This guide will help you figure out which tanks fit your personal tastes and save you the trouble of going down a tank line not suited for you.

Some might enjoy playing mobile medium tanks capable of re-positioning and being where needed while others might want a slow heavily armored heavy tank capable of taking a beating.  Laid out below are the general characteristics of each nationality currently in World of Tanks as well as specifics on each tank line for each nationality. It is still suggested to watch game play and look into the tanks you are interested in before making a choice as this is only one person’s opinion.

This guide will be updated and added to when new German tanks or changes are made in World of Tanks.  For a complete guide on which tank line is right for you see the link below.


German Tanks



Light Tank Line (PZ. I->RU 251)


The light tank line for the German tree starts with the Pz. I and Pz. I C which are both relative quick and easy grinds.  The Pz. I will only take a handful of battles to grind through and overall the tank is pretty fun to play. You will want to push through it fast however to get to the glorious Pz. I C which at tier 3 is a mainstay in many player’s garages due to its fun factor and awesomeness.  The Pz. I C is very fragile even when upgraded but is very agile and zips around on any terrain.  Its view range is top notch for its tier and the Mauser gun is insanely fun with its high rate of fire and machine gun like qualities.  The gun struggles against tier 4 and higher tanks(some tier 5 heavies you cannot penetrate at all) but frail tier 4 and under tanks evaporate in front of your gun.

Moving onto tier 4 is the Pz. II Luchs which was at tier 3 for a very long stint but was moved up with the introduction of the Pz. I tanks.  At tier 4 the Luchs is a capable scout but overall tries to be good at to many areas while not excelling at anything to be a standout tank.  Many gun options are available and the top tier 5 gun the 3cm is great at bullying other tier 4 and under tanks but does not do enough damage per shot to be a threat to most tanks above you.  At tier 5 sits the Leopard which like the Luchs was pushed up a tier with the introduction of new tanks(and also suffers from the change).  The leopard is very similar to the Luchs and shares the same gun set ups which will leave you mainly picking on very weak enemy tanks in tier 5+ games.  The main improvement for the Leopard is much improved view range and maneuverability.  In the end both the Luchs and Leopard are very painful grinds since it can be difficult to dish out any kind of damage and scouting isn’t always viable for exp/credits.

Following the Leopard is the VK 28.01 at tier 6 which was changed when moved up from tier 5 and in a way is a shell of its former self.  The Vk 28.01 isn’t a “true scout” but focuses a bit more on being able to deal damage than other scouts at tier 5/6.  The 10.5cm gun is excellent at crippling lightly armored tanks and fighting at close ranges since it has a very high damage per shot.  The 10.5cm was changed to make HEAT less viable which hurt its ability to deal with many of the tier 6+ tanks it faces.  The top 7.5cm gun does a better job at fighting at longer ranges and has better penetration….however the penetration you gain isn’t enough to deal with most tier 6 and higher tanks.  It’s weight and speed combination also makes it a viable ramming tank when you encounter other light tanks. Overall the VK 28.01 is a scout tank that has good view range, two viable gun set ups(with the 10.5cm gun being the more popular choice), and is a very enjoyable tank to play.

Next in the German light tank line is the tier 7 Aufklarungspanzer Panther…..geez that is quite a mouthful.  Most people call it the “Awful Panther” since it is large for a light tank, doesn’t excell at scouting, and its gun isn’t exactly overpowering aside from it’s great damage per minute.  While I do agree that this tank isn’t “amazing” I enjoyed playing it and find it to be a very flexible tank capable of supporting from behind the front lines.  It needs to choose its places wisely to hide its somewhat clunky size especially if you plan on pushing forward and flanking.  The grind is pretty bad until you get the top gun which finally allows you to deal damage after the tier 4/5/6 grinds since it has decent damage and good penetration.  Unless you have very good map awareness and can move around to where you are needed this tank will be annoying to play since you cannot lead any kind of push.  On the bright side you can finally move into a real tank from here that rewards you for your hard work.

Topping the German light tank line is the Spähpanzer Ru 251 which at tier 8 is an excellent light tank.  The RU 251 is the fastest and most mobile tank int he game by a fair margin and you can easily move around the map without worrying about any enemy tanks aside from fellow RU 251 drivers being capable of keeping up with you.  Due to this speed however you have no armor what-so-ever and even HE shells have an almost 100% chance of penetrating you.  The view range is also standard for a scout so no worries there and as far as “scouting” goes you are one of the best out there in the speed/view range department.  For firepower you have an excellent 90mm gun that has three useful shells since the AP round is great for general usage, the HEAT round has a modest bump in penetration to deal with difficult opponents, and the HE round has 102mm penetration which is awesome.  This allows you to cycle through ammo and have a shell that will take advantage of the position you are in.  One thing to note is that the gun depression is -10 degrees on the sides which is great but when pointing forward it is much lower.  The whole package of the RU 251 is largely positive and as long as you can avoid being nailed by enemies(especially HE) you will love this tank.

Medium Tank Lines (E-50M and Leopard 1)


Low Tier Medium Tank Line(PZ. II->PZ. III/IV)


The tier 2 PZ. II starts off both German medium tank lines and like most of the other sub tier 3 German tanks it is much of the same.  The PZ. II gets a few guns to choose from…all low damage but a high rate of fire which makes dealing with many other tanks in your tier a breeze at close range. On the downside it makes grinding through matches where you are facing tougher tanks very painful(on the positive side the grind is very quick).

At tier 3 sits the PZ. III A and the PZ. II G which provide a choice as far as gameplay goes.  The PZ. III A is a personal favorite of mine since it is a blast to play.  It is very mobile with it’s engine upgrades and the top 2 cm gun is very fun to play with since you are able to tear apart tier 3 tanks, deal with tier 4 tanks, but struggle with tier 5 tanks. The 5 cm gun might seem better but the accuracy and aim time are brutal.  Overall the PZ. III A is a scout tank in most matches but when you are near the top of the list the 2 cm shines and allows you to focus on dealing damage more-so than scouting.  Alternatively is the PZ. II G which is less mobile but in return gets a better top gun in the form of the 3 cm M.K. 103 which allows you deal out consistent damage with that excellent penetration.  Both grinds are quick and easy but my choice is the PZ. III A since it has the added ability to scout while in tier 5 matches. To head down the E-50M line you must shift over to the heavy tank D.W. 2 and progress down that line until tier 6. For the Leopard continue to the PZ. III or VK 20.01 D.

Moving onto tier 4 you have options of the PZ. III and VK. 20.01 D which are very similar tanks.  Both share the same upgraded gun set ups and have the same view ranges. The main difference is that the PZ. III weighs less, has better engine upgrades, and has slightly more armor.  This advantage makes the PZ. III the better tank and at tier 4 is a great all around medium tank that only struggles against tier 5+ tanks.  The VK 20.01 D simply is just a touch behind the PZ. III in several areas but doesn’t bring anything to the table to warrant playing it in my opinion. Both grinds are not that long, but one will certainly be more fun.

Alternatively you have the option of moving on to the PZ. IV A towards the German heavy tanks for those tanks see the heavy tank section.

Tier 5 sees both lines merge back into the PZ. III/IV which improves upon the PZ. III A/PZ. III builds you may have driven in before.  The tank sacrifices some mobility from those tanks and is a nice blend of both low tier German medium tank lines.  When upgraded you gain a touch of penetration on the top gun and your mobility is good enough to scoot around the map easily.  Like other tier 5 mediums you’ll want to play it safe if there are any tier 6+ tanks or tier 5 heavies around since your HP/armor is not amazing. Overall this grind is painless, quick, and allows you to move to tier 6 easily.

Leopard 1 Line (VK 30.01 D->Leopard 1)


The newest German medium tank line starts at tier 7 with the VK 30.01 (D).  The VK. 30.01 relies on angles for it’s armor to work well unlike other German tanks that rely on sheer thickness. It also has good gun depression which when combined with it’s somewhat small size and good gun depression makes it a versatile tank. The downside is that the gun options are not that great and you will find yourself lacking both raw firepower and also penetration.  The grind is not that pleasant due to the lack of a good gun and also needing to grind two somewhat expensive engines.  This tank isn’t bad bat at the same time is not memorable.  Following this tank is the tier 7 VK 30.02 (D) which improves upon this concept.  The VK 30.02 (D) is very mobile and has very good sloped armor for a medium tank.  The gun options get a tad better with the top 8.8 cm gun but you’ll still run into penetration problems.  Much like the previous tank there are expensive engine upgrades which you will want since this tank needs to extra mobility to flank tougher tanks.  In the end the VK 30.02 (D) isn’t the best tank either since putting out damage can be difficult at times.

Moving up to tier 8 comes the Indien-Panzer which is somewhat like the Panther series in the E-50M medium tank line with a few changes.  The stock grind is not that pleasant and you will want to get the next gun as soon as possible(followed by tracks/engine).  Like the Panther the Indien-Panzer is a second line tank/sniper since it doesn’t have great armor, mobility, or any other characteristics other than an accurate gun with good penetration.  Be aware that although your turret looks tough it is in fact very weak, which leads to most shells hitting it aside from low penetration guns to cut through it like butter.  Overall the tank isn’t “bad” but it suffers the same fat as the Panther of being incapable of relying on others to set up shots for you.

Finally at tier 9 the Leopard Prototyp A arrives and changes the way you will play from now on.  The tank is armored like a light tank and starts off with a painful grind that ends in a very enjoyable tank.  Starting off you will want to grab the top gun(no need for the turret yet) and then go for the engine/tracks/turret.  The Leopard P relies on it’s great mobility, view range, and great top gun to put out damage and then re-position.  This tank does not have great damage per minute compared to other tier 9 mediums with it’s slow reload but the 390 alpha/great penetration somewhat make up for it.  The best way to play this tank is to play at medium/long range at the start, dish out some damage, and then later on use your speed to flank and kill off weakened tanks.

Topping this tank line is the Leopard 1 which is the improved version of the previous Leopard Prototyp A.  The Leopard 1 has better view range(410m), an improved gun, good gun depression, and more mobility than it’s predecessor.  This tank is meant to be a blend of a scout, medium/long range bully, and a flanker.  Like other lightly armored vehicles you never want to stop out in the open since one SPG shell that hits you can knock you out.  The accuracy and on the move accuracy is also top notch and will allow you to place shots exactly where you want them to land.  Overall the Leopard 1 is a great tank for those capable of playing aggressive without getting into to much trouble. On the other hand it can be difficult for newer players to master due to it’s frailness.

E-50M Line (VK 30.01 M->E-50M)


The E-50M line starts at tier 6 with the VK. 30.01 M which for all purposes is simply a “blah” tank.  The gun only gets two gun choices which are somewhat similar since the top gun simply adds a touch of alpha, accuracy, and penetration. At tier 6 however the top gun isn’t anything special and you won’t be able to go toe-to-toe with many of the tanks you face(especially heavy tanks) without being torn apart. Armor wise you will not see any sort of protection from tier 5+ tanks but on the plus side you get some very good engines to upgrade to which allow you to use your mobility to get to where you need to be.  This tank isn’t very fun to grind through and more often than not you are simply “there” in a match as a support tank.

Next in line is the Panther at tier 7 which unless you skip the stock grind is brutal with the gun that carries over.  You will want to get the top 7.5 cm gun first then go for the tracks and top engine before moving onto the Panther II.  The Panther is purely a sit back and support/snipe tank since it has very good accuracy/penetration but puny damage per shot at tier 7.  The turret is small enough and the upgraded one armored enough to allow you to hide your hull somewhat at long ranges and be protected from tier 7 and below tanks. Overall the Panther relies greatly on it’s team and can be hard to influence a match with how World of Tanks plays out.  It is a great support/sniper but in most cases you will find that you cannot help your team where you are needed most….the front lines.

Tier 8 sees the Panther II which tries to improve upon the Panther I which was lacking in many aspects.  The first thing to do is to research the turret for the view range/armor and then head for the tracks/top 8.8 cm gun. The engine can be researched last since there is no point in getting it if you cannot do any meaningful damage.  Before getting the top gun you are essentially a tier 7 Panther stuck at tier 8 which can be very frustrating.  Once upgraded however the Panther II is a solid tank since it packs just enough alpha to be able to move more towards the front lines. You will still want to support unless you are facing mainly tier 7’s but the added improvements allows you to influence the battle more.

Finally at tier 9 you get to reap the rewards….just not right away. The E-50 grind is brutal since like the Panther’s you are merely a slightly up armored Panther II slapped at tier 9 until you are upgraded.  I suggest to get the engine/tracks first and then go straight for the turret/top gun.  The alternative gun option while tempting is just a waste of experience in the long run and only improves your penetration slightly.  The E-50 is the golden example of the medium/heavy hybrid since it weighs a ton/has decent armor but at the same time with the top engine moves like a medium.  Once upgraded you have an excellent gun capable of damaging anything you come across but you lack a tad bit of DPM due to your weight/armor.  To make up for this you gain the interesting aspect of being a very good ramming platform.  Your weight/speed allow you to ram most non-heavy tanks and do massive damage so specializing in some ramming skills/equipment is recommended.  Keep in mind that your armor is good enough to bounce a lot of incoming shells aside from your lower frontal glacis. Overall the E-50 is a favorite of many at tier 9 due to it’s flexibility between being a medium while also having heavy tank aspects.

E-50 Weak Spots: http://wotguru.com/weak-spot-guide-e-50-e-50-ausf-m/

Ending this medium tank line is the E-50M which merely improves upon the E-50 in various ways.  Most important the engine is moved to the rear of the tank which takes away those pesky fires and gains a nice horsepower buff to increase your mobility.  The gun also is upgraded to provide you with excellent penetration.  Gameplay wise your role remains the same and while you might lack damage per minute compared to other tier 10 medium tanks you make up for it with your armor/ramming ability.

E-50M Weak Spots: http://wotguru.com/weak-spot-guide-e-50-e-50-ausf-m/

Heavy Tank Lines (Maus and E-100)


Low Tier German Heavy Tank Lines (PZ. 35 (t)->PZ. IV H, D.W. 2->VK 30.01 H, and PZ. IV A-> PZ. IV H)


To get the the German heavy tanks you have three options to choose from and each are broken down into different sections below.

D.W 2 -> VK 30.01 H Line

At tier 4 kicking off the heavy tanks of the German tree is the Durchbruchswagen 2 which may seem interesting being a tier 4 heavy tank….but once you play it you’ll see it is severely lacking.  The armor on the D.W. 2 isn’t sloped and is 50mm over most of the hull and turret.  At tier 4 this is adequate only if you learn how to angle your tank and only then it works against some guns(and not tier 5’s).  The gun selection is also pitiful and the top 5cm struggles even against tier 4’s and relies on the use of expensive premium ammo to shine.  This tank pays greatly for being a low tier heavy and is limited to tier 5 maximum(unlike tier 6 for other tier 4’s) for a reason.

Following the dud that is the Durchbruchswagen 2 comes the tier 5 VK 30.01 H which is a huge improvement.  The VK 30.01 H still suffers from having weak armor for a heavy tank and somewhat low mobility.  Start off by grabbing the tracks/turret followed by a push for the Konish(Waffe) gun.  This gun isn’t built for absorbing shots but rather for the excellent Konish gun that has good damage per shot for it’s tier as well as excellent penetration capable of dealing with even the toughest of tier 7 tanks.  You may be a heavy tank but you will want to play more like a second line tank early on in the match and then later on when the enemy is weakened is when you can advance.  This tank starts off slow like a lot of German tanks but the end result is a capable tier 5 tank.

PZ. 35 (t) -> PZ. IV H Line

Starting out the most “direct” path to the German heavy lines is the tier 2 PZ. 35 (t) which is nothing spectacular when compared to some of the newer German low tier tanks released.  At tier 2 the grind is very quick and painless however the first 3 tanks in this line don’t represent “heavy tank” gameplay and instead are light tanks.  The PZ. 35 (t) is very agile and it has either a conventional gun or a fun 2 cm gun to machine gun lightly armored tanks down.  Overall it isn’t anything special and is simply a tank for new players to pass on through.  The next time at tier 3 is the PZ. 38 (t) which plays very similar to the previous tank with slight upgrades.  The initial grind is easy and you are able to upgrade to get the much needed 4.7 cm gun and the top engine within a handful of battles.  This tank gains a bit of mobility and firepower when compared to the PZ. 35 (t) and is a fun tank to play.  Again, with it being tier 3 it is a quick grind and you move very quickly through it.

PzKpfw 35 t Weak Spots: http://wotguru.com/weak-spot-guide-pzkpfw-35-t/

PzKpfw 38 t Weak Spots: http://wotguru.com/weak-spot-guide-pzkpfw-38-t/

At tier 4 sits the infamous PZ. 38 nA which is a decent scouting light tank since it is very mobile and has a decent 370m view range with the top turret.  However, the grind is very painful since you severely lack any sort of firepower even with the top 5 cm gun and are merely a fly on the wall against any tanks above tier 4.  This tank is not very forgiving due to it being primarily a dedicated scout/harasser tank and this makes it difficult for newer players to have fun in it.

At tier 5 sits the PZ. IV H which finally starts you back on the path of the heavy tanks since you gain firepower, a touch of armor, and lose some mobility in return.  The initial grind is much easier than the PZ 38 nA by a mile and this is a very enjoyable tank in my opinion.  It doesn’t suffer in any glaring way and the top 7.5 cm gun(the 10.5cm is only “ok” with expensive premium shells) does very well against any enemies you will face.  The PZ. IV H once upgraded has good mobility for a medium tank and when you add in it’s good top gun and somewhat functional armor it becomes a nice starting point at tier 5 for new players.

PZ. IV A -> PZ. IV H Line

Branching off of the medium tank lines is the PZ. IV A line that starts at tier 3. To do this line you will need to start at the PZ. II, move to the PZ. III A, and then to the PZ. IV A.  The PZ. IV A at tier 3 is a very lightly armored medium tank that packs a punch with it’s top 7.5 cm gun albeit very inaccurate.  The grind is not to bad starting off and moving through this tank.  Overall it plays like many low tier German tanks in that it has bad armor, decent mobility, and good guns.  It’s a quick and painless tank to move through.

Tier 4 sees you upgrade to the PZ. IV D which improves upon the previous PZ. IV in a few ways.  Make sure that you have the 7.5 cm gun researched or else the initial grind will be very difficult.  The PZ. IV D gains a bit more mobility and a very good top gun for tier 4(unlike that pesky PZ. 38 nA) that can easily penetrate any tank it will face.  This tank is meant for doing damage and with the great top 7.5cm and the usable .41 accuracy it is very good at it.

Finally at tier 4 comes the PZ. IV H. At tier 5 sits the PZ. IV H which finally starts you back on the path of the heavy tanks since you gain firepower, a touch of armor, and lose some mobility in return.  The initial grind is much easier than the PZ 38 nA by a mile and this is a very enjoyable tank in my opinion.  It doesn’t suffer in any glaring way and the top 7.5 cm gun(the 10.5cm is only “ok” with expensive premium shells) does very well against any enemies you will face.  The PZ. IV H once upgraded has good mobility for a medium tank and when you add in it’s good top gun and somewhat functional armor it becomes a nice starting point at tier 5 for new players.

E-100 Line (VK 36.01 H->E-100)


Starting off the E-100 heavy line correctly at tier 6 is the VK 36.01 H which was formerly a heavy medium tank but was reclassified as a heavy tank.  The VK 36.01 H does not sport heavy armor like most heavies and starting off the stock turret isn’t protected very well either.  Start off by getting the Konish(Waffe) gun since it can mount on the stock turret then head for turret->engine->tracks.  The VK 36.01 H is a very good bully for tier 6 and under tanks and the Konish rewards fighting at mid to long range since it is a low alpha/high penetration gun.  The main downside of this tank is the somewhat low mobility and that you cannot rely on your armor against tanks your tier or above aside from hull down with the top turret.  Overall the tank is very rewarding to play and is a great blend of a heavy tank with medium tank aspects sprinkled in.

Tier 7 sees you move into a larger tank in the form of the Tiger.  This tank again does not sport overwhelming armor and learning how to angle your tank slightly will do wonders against tier 6 and under tanks.  The German stock grind is once again in full force and you will want to push for the turret->tracks->top gun quickly since the stock Tiger is atrocious.  Until you get the top gun you will want to play conservatively and try not to get into close range fights since you are grossly outmatched. Once upgraded the Tiger becomes a very good tank aside from it’s armor.  The top gun has enough penetration and damage to dispatch tier 8’s easily and will only struggle against tier 9 heavy tanks and tank destroyers.  Like the VK 36.01 H you will want to avoid getting into close quarter fights due to your armor early on in matches, but later on your HP will be enough of a cushion that you can.

Finally you move into a tank with some armor in the form of the tier 8 Tiger II(King Tiger).  Like other German tanks you are left with a brutal stock grind since you need to research the upgraded turret to get the needed armor to protect yourself from even puny tier 6 tanks. After that you will need the upgraded tracks and engine to get enough mobility to prevent yourself from being left behind in most matches and being a slow brick.  However, once you upgrade to the upgraded 10.5 cm guns(the top gun with the added accuracy is a blessing) you will be rewarded for all your trouble.  The main downsides of this tank is it’s paper thin sides/rear and the lower glacis plate. If you learn how to hide your lower glacis while preventing yourself from being flanked your armor is superb considering the top gun you also mount.  The Tiger II has the nice combination of great firepower, adequate mobility(with the top engine), and workable armor. Make sure to elite the Tiger II before heading to the E-75 at all costs since you will want the upgraded guns to carry over.

Tiger II Tank Guide: http://wotguru.com/tank-guide-tiger-ii/

Tiger II Weak Spots: http://wotguru.com/weak-spot-guide-pzkpfw-vib-tiger-ii/

At tier 9 comes the glorious E-75 that finally puts you into a true heavy tank.  The E-75 has arguably the best chassis for armor on a heavy tank in the game and it’s not even a tier 10.  This makes starting off a little less painful since you can grab the upgraded tracks/turret quickly and then the engine.  This will transform you into a shell eating machine if you take your past angling lessons and use them. An angled E-75 can eat most tier 10 shells(tank destroyers still pose a problem) and the top gun from the Tiger II is good enough to hold you over for the time being.  Once you unlock the top gun you gain the punch the E-75 deserves and just sweetens the pot since you can now soak up damage and dish it out.  The only downsides are the somewhat large side profile which when not angled can be damaged by tier 9+ tanks and also the low mobility on hilly terrain.

E-75 Tank Guide: http://wotguru.com/tank-guide-e-75/

E-75 Weak Spots: http://wotguru.com/weak-spot-guide-e-75/

You have now have  reached the E-100 at tier 10 which improves upon the E-75 philosophy with one glaring hole.  The E-100 gains a lot of armor protection over most of the tank which will protect it against anything thrown at it while angled(and even non-direct artillery hits). However, the frontal lower glacis is unfortunately weaker than the E-75 which leads to a glaring hole in your armor.  This can be covered up via map cover, fighting at close ranges(to increase the angle on it), or by angling….but it will always be a thorn in your side.  On the plus side you gain the 15cm gun(once you unlock it) which is the hardest hitting tier 10 heavy tank gun in the game currently.  The AP shell has low penetration so carrying a nice mix of HEAT(for credits) and 10ish HE rounds does wonders. Use HE at tough targets at long range, HEAT for heavy tanks/tank destroyers, and AP for medium/light tanks.  Overall the E-100 is a fantastic tank aside from the glaring weak spot and inability to fight at long range.

E-100 Tank Guide: http://wotguru.com/tank-guide-e-100/

E-100 Weak Spots: http://wotguru.com/weak-spot-guide-e-100/

Maus Line (VK 30.01 P->Maus)


At tier 6 the VK 30.01 P starts off the Maus heavy tank line.  The VK 30.01 P is one of the worse stock grinds at tier 6 since you need to start off by getting the upgraded tracks/engine to fix the very poor mobility you are handed.  After that go for the 8.8 cm gun(it fits in the stock turret) which you will keep using until the next tank and then the turret.  Once completed make sure to research the top engine since that also fits into the Tiger P at tier 7.  Overall the VK 30.01 P isn’t anything special stock but when upgraded it is a decent tank.  You have decent armor on the hull that can protect you against tier 5 and under tanks and excellent turret armor.  You also have very good top speed and with the top engine you have great mobility.  The 8.8 cm at tier 6 is also an excellent gun and only suffers from somewhat bad accuracy at long range.  The main downsides is that the armor is terrible against tier 6+ tanks and you have low HP.  In the end it isn’t a bad tank upgraded but the stock grind really leaves a bad taste in your mouth.

VK 30.01 P Weak Spots: http://wotguru.com/weak-spot-guide-vk-3001-p/

At tier 7 the Tiger P starts off with a relative easy stock grind since the engines and 8.8 cm carry over from the VK 30.01 P.  Research the tracks and then the upgraded turret(you will want that added armor).  Finally research the top gun and you are set!  The Tiger P isn’t as slow as you might think with that heavy armor and can be surprising.  You sport a very good top gun as well which makes you think what is wrong with this tank? Well the armor values might seem to good to be true….and they are.  The frontal armor has well known holes in it and the turret is very weak(even the upgraded turret) against tier 7+ tanks.  This leaves the Tiger P in the “heavy medium” realm but it pulls it off well enough that it is a very fun tank to play.  Just avoid trying to go full speed ahead against enemies that can punch through your armor easily and also hilly terrain(poor gun depression) and you’ll be well off.

Tiger (P) Weak Spots: http://wotguru.com/weak-spots-guide-pzkpfw-vi-tiger-p/

Tier 8 sees you once again stick with the “heavy medium” vibe that the previous two tiers had.  The VK 45.02 P Ausf. A trades armor for mobility and raw firepower.  Starting off you carry over several things but you need to research the upgraded tracks to mount them which is annoying. After that grab the top gun, then upgraded turret, and the amazing top engine to finish things off.  Starting off you will most likely hate this tank since you are a lightly armored heavy tank with bad gun depression and “meh” mobility.  However, once you unlock the top gun and engine you become a medium tank’s worst nightmare.  The top gun allows you to hold your own against other tier 8 heavy tanks/tank destroyers but it truly shines against tier 8 medium tanks.  The added mobility from the top engine allows you to keep up with and sometimes outrun medium tanks.  The downside is that the gun depression on this tank is terrible and you have bad armor for a heavy tank.  If you play this like a medium you will love it but if you play it like a heavy tank you will struggle.

The VK 45.02 P Ausf. B follows at tier 9 and finally shifts you into a more traditional heavy tank role. Starting off you will want to grab the 10.5 cm L/68 and then the upgraded tracks.  After that you can head towards the top gun that packs a mean punch.  This tank has a rear mounted turret which makes the learning curve slightly higher since the gun depression is very low.  You also have to learn how to “side scrape” and angle.  To do this simply put the front of your tank into a corner of a building, rock, etc. and then stick the rear of your tank out at slight angle(so you can just peak your rear turret out). This allows you to back up, fire, and then drive forward while having your side armor at a very tough angle to damage.  The VK 45.02 P Ausf. B isn’t very mobile and due to the rear turret is limited in where it can fight.  However, the frontal armor is very good even against tier 10 tanks and the top gun packs a strong punch.  This tank can either be very annoying to play due to it’s turret or very rewarding if you can master it’s play style.

VK 45.02 P Ausf. B Weak Spots: http://wotguru.com/weak-spot-guide-vk-4502-p-ausf-b/

At tier 10 sits the behemoth Maus that is truly a super heavy tank.  The Maus also has a rear mounted turret like the previous tank but the armor is much improved over the entire tank.  This means that you should(and need to) angle at all times both your hull and turret(when not firing) to maximize your armor.  Your main feature is your overwhelming armor and HP pool so utilize it the best you can.  The gun still packs that 490 damage per shot which is very good but your damage per minute compared to other tier 10 tanks is pitiful.  Your speed, traverse, and gun depression are also sub par leaving you to need to think ahead 1 minute to plan your routes.  The Maus might be one of the oldest tier 10’s in World of Tanks leaving many to feel that it is outclassed by newer tanks.  For those who know how to angle and make the most out of it’s HP/armor will realize that it can still mop the floor and has it’s role in the battlefield.  You won’t be the tank darting across the map to spot targets and flank…but you will be that tank hunkering down and soaking up 10,000+ damage per game for your team.

Maus Tank Guide: http://wotguru.com/tank-guide-maus/

Maus Weak Spots: http://wotguru.com/weak-spots-guide-maus/

Tank Destroyer Line (Pz.Jg I->JgPze E100)


German tank destroyers for the most part a solid tanks to play but are very one dimensional in most areas which limits their overall usefulness.  Starting at tier 2/3 with the Pz.Jg I and the Marder II you have very frail tanks which puts them further away from the fight in a support role.  Both equip very good guns for their tier and can chew through tanks at mid to long range.

 At tier 4 you have a choice of the Hetzer, Marder 38T, and the Stug III B if you choose the Marder route.  The Hetzer which sports a decent amount of armor(especially the frontal armor which is excellent) for the tier and is a tad more sluggish due to that.  It however packs a mean howitzer gun as it’s top gun(or the more reliable 7.5 cm) which at tier 4 is superb since most tanks do not have a great deal of armor to counter HE shells.  The Marder 38T is very lightly armored and is a slightly improvement over the Marder II.  This tank relies on it’s excellent damage per minute and gun traverse to sit on the second lines and machine gun the enemy down before it is spotted.  The stock grind is also very painless and overall is an easy tank to move through.  Before you move onto tier 5 if you chose the Marder 38T you also have to go through the tier 4 Stug III G.  The Stug III G is very similar to the Stug that is at tier 5 except it has lower armor and does not have access to the top gun for it.  However, this tank is a very good option since you can unlock almost all modules before moving onto tier 5 where things get much tougher since both Stug’s share engines, radios, and most guns.  The Stug III B packs a lot of firepower DPM wise into a mobile lightly armored chassis and is a great tank to play before moving up to tier 5.

Hetzer Weak Spots: http://wotguru.com/weak-spot-guide-hetzer/

Before moving onto the tier 5 Stug III G you’ll want to grab the 7.5 cm on the Hetzer or Stug III B even if you do not plan on using it.  This will help you with the initial stock grind which is a tad brutal since the Stug loses some armor since it is a higher tier compared to the hetzer and has no fearful gun alpha wise.  The Stug shifts back into the “avoid taking shots” type of tank that was at tier 2/3 but lacks flexibility due to the lack of survive-ability and DPM gun. Tier 6 is much of the same with the JagdPz IV which like the Stug you’ll want to research the top gun before moving into it.  The JagdPz IV has awesome DPM with it’s top gun but aside from that there is no other true positive side of the tank to make it worth keeping.

Tier 7 brings the Jagdpanther which is a tad similar to the JagdPz IV but is a bit larger.  The low armor, low durability, and lack of flexibility remain but the gun gets a further boost. The initial grind very painful since you do not have much damage potential damage and penetration wise.  Make a push for the 10.5 cm which is a remedy for those problems and turns this tank into a very good damage dealer that is great at supporting your team. From here you have a choice of the Ferdinand or JapgdPanther II which offer two different types of tank destroyers.  Both have very good top guns which make their damage potential very high and people recognize that even if they are in a tier 10.  The Ferdinand offers a slower tank but with better armor while the JagdPanther II lacks any type of useful armor but gains a bit of mobility. Both are great tank destroyers and deciding which one to pick comes down to how you play.

Ferdinand Weak Spots: http://wotguru.com/weak-spot-guide-ferdinand/

Tier 9 brings the Jagdtiger which brings great armor(aside from the lower glacis) and in most regards is an improved Ferdinand.  The mobility isn’t amazing but it gets the job done and the larger size does hamper it’s effectiveness if you are caught out in the open.  On the plus side however you have two amazing guns(stock grind isn’t bad) and the top gun shreds anything into pieces in it’s path.  Like the previous tank destroyers it does lack a bit of flexibility since you can be easily flanked and have a large profile but the gun easily makes up for it if you can harness it.

Capping off this tank branch is the JagdPz E-100 which uses the tier 10 heavy tank E-100’s chassis with a rear mounted design.  The armor overall is very good but unlike the E-100 since this tank destroyer has no turret you cannot angle as much if you plan on firing to hide your very weak lower glacis.  This along with the low mobility and it being one dimensional are the downsides of this tank destroyer. The JagdPz E-100 brings a 1050 damage gun to the game that is meant to peak out, whack off a ton of HP, and then to slink back into cover.  This gun is very good and puts fear into enemies however due to your weak spots, low mobility, and large size it is hard to play for some since you have to rely on working with others. This tank requires some level of support and trying to venture off on your own in a battle in it unless you can back yourself into corner usually ends in failure.

Jagdpanzer E-100 Weak Spots: http://wotguru.com/weak-spot-guide-jagdpanzer-e-100/

Tank Destroyer Line (Marder 38T-> WT Auf. E-100)


Starting off the second German tank destroyer line is the tier 4 Marder 38T.   The Marder 38T is very lightly armored and is a slightly improvement over the Marder II.  This tank relies on it’s excellent damage per minute and gun traverse to sit on the second lines and machine gun the enemy down before it is spotted.  The stock grind is also very painless and overall is an easy tank to move through.  Following at tier 5 is the Pz.Sfl. IVc which starts off with a bad grind due to the gun not transferring over.  However, aside from the initial grind the tank is very good once you get used to the large size/bad gun depression.  This tank is meant to stay at long range and use it’s excellent firepower and mobility to prevent itself from being shot.  The downside is that if you have to fight up close or are spotted your low armor and large size will lead to you being destroyed easily.

At tier 6 the Nashorn suffers the same fate of not having the previous upgraded guns carry over.  This leads to an annoying stock grind but like the previous tank it all gets better after that.  The Nashorn’s main weakness are it’s large size, low armor, and low gun depression.  It however has great view range, good mobility, and great upgraded guns.  It’s role like the previous tanks is to prevent being targeted at all costs so your superior gun to dish out damage in safety.  This role is very hard to pull off and sometimes impossible depending on your team unfortunately.

Tier 7 brings the Pz.Sfl. V which does not carry over the previous guns once again but that is not a huge issue.  It starts off with the 10.5 cm gun which is a decent stock gun which upgrades to the 12.8 cm.  Both guns pack high alpha and good penetration(no gold rounds needed on top gun!) onto a very weak chassis.  Like it’s predecessors it’s armor and hardyness is very poor leading it to be very careful of it’s movements.   The tank destroyer is not that mobile either and really pays for it’s massive amount of firepower it wields   Overall it is a tough tank destroyer to play since you rely on your team heavily to set up shots for you and to prevent you front being destroyed.

Tier 8 sees you move into the Rhm.-Borsig Waffenträger which is even more frail as the tank destroyers you were in before!  Armor is essentially non-existent and any HE/artillery hit will obliterate you.  On the plus side your firepower is once again scaled up with the stock 12.8 cm and upgraded 15 cm.  Leave the 15 cm until last since the puny engine upgrade and added track traverse is needed to get you around the map marginally faster.  Your role remains the same…..sit on the second line and chuck 750 damage busses at people with a tier 8 tank destroyer.  This tank is limited in it’s usefulness since it cannot lead charges, flank, or fight head on head without team support.  Progressing to the tier 9 Waffenträger auf Pz. IV is rather easy since there are not many upgrades and at tier 9 the tank sticks in the same role as the previous tank destroyers.  You start off with the upgraded gun from tier 8 and you should grab the tracks/engine first.  After that ignore the upgraded 15 cm gun and go for the 12.8 cm since it has better accuracy, penetration, and overall is better suited for your mid to long range role.  The traits largely stay the same and you are in a frail tank destroyer with “meh” mobility and comfort.  You pay heavily for your firepower, rely on your team heavily, but can be devestating if you survive long enough to put out damage.

Finally tier 10 and the Waffenträger auf E-100 which puts you into a “slightly” better armored chassis that has a turret! And an auto-loader!  While the chassis is decently armored(it’s essentially a E-100 without the side skirts) your turret is pathetically armored with 20mm which leads to any HE….or tier 1 shells flying your way to penetrate and cause issues.  Crew and gun damage are highly likely and can be an issue.  Your mobility isn’t great but it is better than you would guess for such a large tank.  Aside from those downsides this tank destroyer is pure gold.  Once again stick with the 12.8 cm and forget the 15cm since the 12.8cm is more accurate, has better penetration, and packs a whopping 2,800 average damage per clip! This means that you can annihilate most tier 10 tanks in the game in a matter of seconds and sometimes before they can get a second(or first) shot off.  To top it all off you have 420m view range meaning that you can remain hidden while raining death upon your foes if you have decent camouflage skills. Overall this tank destroyer is completely ridiculous as far as damage potential goes and unless you simply drive out into the open in front of 3+ tanks you will easily mop the floor.  It has been changed to reduce it’s one-clip ability and also it’s accuracy but it still remains the most deadly tank in the game when loaded by a long shot and if you can prevent yourself from being shot to much you will do wonders in this tank.

Waffenträger auf E-100 Weak Spots: http://wotguru.com/weak-spot-guide-waffentrager-auf-e100/

Translate »